Nourriture et Musique
Back home, after a 2-hour and 20-minute journey from Val Thorens to the Lyon airport (plus the 55-minute flight and another 2-hour drive), we breathed a sigh of relief as the familiar sights of the Cotes des Basques greeted us. Thursday's highlight was our visit to Elkano in Getaria, spurred by a David Chang podcast we had listened to during our drive to Bordeaux. In Getaria, it's a common sight to see restaurants grilling seafood right outside their doors. The allure of fresh seafood, straight from the Bay of Biscay, is irresistible. As we savored the flavors, we couldn't help but reflect on the uniqueness of this dining experience, especially compared to what one might find in the US. Firstly, the sheer freshness of the seafood, caught that very day, is a luxury not found in the States unless you venture out and reel in your own catch. The simplicity and purity of flavors are what Basque cuisine is all about. Secondly, the idea of seafood arriving with its head and bones intact might not sit well with Americans, as there's often a preference for filleted and deboned fish. Lastly, while fried fish with tartare sauce may be a beloved fixture in American seafood culture, it simply can't hold a candle to this. After the first bite, the boys were grinning from ear to ear, a testament to the quality of the cuisine. We were treated to a perfect balance of flavors. This was not just any meal, it was the boys' first encounter with Michelin-starred dining. How fortunate! After lunch, we went below the restaurant to see the tanks, where enormous lobsters, spiny crabs, and shrimp awaited their culinary destiny. We learned about the maintenance regimen that ensures the high quality of the seafood, with constant monitoring of water temperature. They even use water straight from the bay!
Friday, I started my morning walking the steps at the Cotes des Basques, twice, and then we rode our bikes to the St. Charles for some family basketball. We stopped at the Halles to pick up the necessary provisions before immersing ourselves in the epic saga of Dune Part 2 at the Monciné in Anglet. I can’t help but think: today was the essence of life in Biarritz—and it's simply the best. The evening unfolded with a paella dinner shared with Bruno and Vanessa, setting the stage for a night of electronic rhythms at Atabal, where DJ French79 spun his blend of electronic, synth-pop, and indie music.
Saturday is a market day, so we planned to visit Honderibia (30 minutes south in Spain), hoping to encounter some familiar faces from the Ordizia market. We were excited to find the vendor with the best piquillo peppers, or perhaps the purveyor, Balerdipeko Erleak, of the hazelnut and pralinea spread, not to mention the goat cheese guy. Sadly, our hopes were dashed as we learned that the market had been canceled due to the weather. Nonetheless, we decided to make the most of our time by walking around the village and treating ourselves to some pintxos. Racing against the clock, we dashed off to the airport to pick up the Sivaks, followed by a dinner of Roman-style pizza at La Pinsa, and the night didn’t end there. Gabe and I went dancing at La Bal de Samedi Soir in Bayonne, where we grooved to various DJ beats, with Bruno and Vanessa.
The week kicked off with the boys settling back into the school routine, counting down the days until the April break—only six weeks away. I love this alternating rhythm of six weeks on and two weeks off. Each afternoon was a flurry of activity for the boys, from basketball and Sauvetage Cotier to tutoring sessions with either Florence or Lula and pausing each night to watch the sunset. Luke is studying hard for all his classes and making plans with his friends - skiing, sleepovers, whatever he can muster. My schedule remained consistent with Monday pilates, Tuesday night French class, and meeting up with Cecile and Romaine for coffee. As for Gabe, he is working nightly, and he bought a month's membership at Thalamar, a thalassotherapy centre, for soaks and aquagym—well maybe NOT aquagym, but he will enjoy the center! Tout est normal.
The weather's been so nice the past few days, a much-needed break from all the rain. It feels like our town is finally shaking off its winter slumber—more places are opening up, the temperature's rising, and spring produce is available at the market. With more people out and about, there's this buzz of energy in the air. I'm counting down until April 1st when everything's back in full swing - Etxola Bibi, Trallallá on Gambetta, the Halles marketplace out front, all the little beach huts … can’t wait.
Charlie needed basketball shoes to ensure proper support for his ankles and knees, so we went down to San Sebastian (while Luke was at school) to visit a store called Basket Country. Charlie must have tried on at least 10 different pairs of shoes, but each one seemed to have its flaws or discomfort. Despite the exhaustive search, the woman at the store remained incredibly patient with us. In the end, Charlie circled back to the first pair he tried on, and with a sense of relief, we knew he had found the perfect fit. Now he's all set for his practice tonight, and seeing the smile on his face makes it all worth it. Happy kid, happy parents! Of course, while we were down there, we had to stop at Antonio for tortilla. Note to self: stop going to San Sebastian when we're pressed for time and need to be back right away! But hey, at least we got to savor a tasty treat before heading back, right?
Thursday, Gabe and I went on a three-hour hike in Itxassou. The scenery was beautiful, with lush green hillsides dotted with grazing sheep and gentle streams meandering through the landscape. The trail had challenging moments, especially with the 1000-foot elevation gain. At the top, we could see the ocean and snow-capped Pyrenees in the distance. We had such a nice time. Later, we caught up with Charlie, his classmates, and all the primary schools in Biarritz for the Carnaval parade. All the kids were in costumes, gathering in front of the Mairie. The atmosphere was electric, with two DJs pumping out tunes as the kids made their way to the Jardin Public. People lined the streets, peering from windows and pausing their daily routines to witness the spectacle. Roads were closed to traffic, but nobody seemed to mind; instead, they embraced the joyous occasion with smiles and laughter. At the Jardin Public, the festivities continued with more music, dancing, and even a foam machine and mini cannons shooting out bursts of fire. Twisting balloons were thrown out to the crowd, adding to the fun. Each school had its own designated table where treats were handed out. Charlie’s school offered crepes for each student. It was a scene of pure fun - for everyone! A real party! The city did not hold back. I love how France embraces children. Today was a perfect example. It's wonderful how every village offers so many events throughout the year, and what's even better is that there's a monthly publication detailing all the happenings. It's a testament to how child-friendly and community-oriented this country is. I can't help but wish that the US would take a page from France's book and place more emphasis on catering to the needs of both children and the elderly.
To end a fantastic day, we drank GinTos with Ashley, her mom, and Luis, while watching the sunset with the kids and then drove to Anglet for pizza at Trallallá. All good things happening for us here with a busy weekend ahead.
