Val Thorens

Spending ten days in the French Alps skiing at Val Thorens was something else. It's difficult to articulate just how remarkable it was; it was simply unforgettable.

The journey began with a road trip, driving to Bordeaux, where we soaked up the vibrant atmosphere and indulged in some culinary fun including creative cocktails at Henzo and dim sum at Madame Pang. The following morning, we flew to Lyon, but little did we know that the real adventure was yet to unfold. Upon landing, we were greeted by our driver, George, who warned us of “some” traffic. What started as a planned 4-hour transfer spiraled into an unforeseen 12-hour ordeal of frustration and exhaustion. The roads were choked with congestion, exits barricaded, and our progress along the autoroute reduced to a crawl. We found ourselves at a standstill for hours, surrounded by fellow travelers who had resorted to picnicking along the road, taking leisurely walks, or simply standing by their vehicles in the hope of movement. People were peeing on the side of the road, parents were comforting crying babies, and some drivers attempted to skirt the traffic by driving on the shoulder until others blocked their path, creating chaos. At 8 pm, weary and famished, we found an exit and gratefully made our way into a restaurant called Le Grizzly in Albertville. It was a much-needed respite—a chance to refuel our bodies and spirits before continuing to Val Thorens. They only had a charcuterie plate, and after chatting with the owner, the boys had a burger. Not ideal, but better than nothing. Albertville to Val Thorens is usually a 1.5 hour drive. However, it took us four hours resulting in arriving at midnight. But it was all worth it when we woke up to the majestic mountain landscape the next morning.

We rented a residence apartment for the week, and it was perfect. The apartment had everything we needed—a kitchenette, a dining area, a small sitting area, and a balcony with a breathtaking view of the village and the mountains beyond. The rooms were just right, with plenty of drawers and hanging space to organize our belongings. The two bathrooms were equipped with turbo-charged towel heaters, which came in handy for drying our gloves and balaclavas. But the real cherry on top was the ski room. Our heated locker awaited us, with ample space for our boots and skis. The convenience of ski-in and ski-out access was a game changer. We didn’t waste time driving to the slopes, searching for parking, or waiting for shuttles. Instead, all we had to do was step out of the building, and we were on the slopes. Amazing!

The village, while small, pulses with activity and is easily navigated on foot. There are numerous restaurants, bars, and even an ice skating rink and bowling alley for entertainment. A small church stands mid-village, as well as a “mall-like” area and even a cinema. At La Board gym, fitness enthusiasts can enjoy everything from basketball to racquetball courts. The streets are lined with shops, and apres-ski spots are easy to find. There is even a local marche on Tuesdays and Thursdays, where you can find an array of local products (although crazy expensive - Gabe bought a bag of nuts, cheese, olives, and tapenade for 80E! Eek. We didn’t go back). When it comes to saving some cash, going to the Carrefour or 8 à Huit for groceries is definitely the way to go, rather than splurging on meals at resort prices.

Skiing in Val Thorens was unlike anything we'd ever experienced. From the long runs to the stunning vistas, every moment was sheer bliss. We seized the opportunity to explore the cirque, skiing down pristine slopes without a tree in sight. Thanks to Bruno's advice, we decided to skip lunch altogether. It was clear that most skiers took a break between 12:00 and 2:00, heading to the chalets dotted across the mountain for a leisurely meal. This choice paid off, as we had no lift lines and fewer people on the runs, making our skiing experience even more enjoyable. And of course, indulging in local delicacies like fondue and raclette added to the charm of our evenings. Luke became our tartiflette expert, sampling one at every restaurant we visited. In case you're not familiar, tartiflette is a traditional French dish made with potatoes, Reblochon cheese, lardons, and onions, baked to golden perfection—a hearty dish that embodies the essence of the Alps. Wednesday's snowfall was truly magical for us, especially since it was the first time Luke or Charlie had ever seen falling snow. The boys, standing on the deck in their robes, were thrilled. They couldn't resist sticking out their tongues, laughing joyfully as the large flakes delicately landed on them, creating a moment of pure childhood wonder.

Both boys took ESF (École du Ski Français) private lessons this week, and their progress was impressive. It was amazing to watch how quickly they were mastering the slopes and growing in confidence each day. After Charlie completed his fifth lesson, he proudly earned his deuxième étoile. His achievement filled us with pride as well! These stars aren't handed out lightly; you have to truly earn them by mastering all the necessary skills. While they were busy with their lessons, Gabe and I had the opportunity to ski together, just the two of us. It felt like magic. We went up to one of the summits, Grand Fond, and the view was jaw-dropping. Picture a 360-degree panorama of the entire area, with lifts and gondolas crisscrossing in every direction and endless ski tracks stretching out before us. And in the distance, you could see the majestic mountain ranges of the Alps, seemingly endless in their beauty. Our longest run was 5.2 km (3 miles), and it was just awesome from start to finish.

Unfortunately, Luke suffered an injury to his Achilles tendon, which meant he had to take it easy on the slopes. But he didn't let it dampen his spirits. He spent time resting and icing his injury. He pushed himself and on his last day of lessons, he was able to join a group of snowboarders (with his ESF instructor, Jean Luc) for some off-piste adventures. On our 9th day skiing, Charlie decided to take a break from his ski lessons. His feet were aching, and he needed some time to recuperate. It was a bit of a disappointment for him, as he was eager to continue mastering the slopes and earn his troisième étoile. But sometimes, you have to listen to your body, even when you're in the middle of the best ski vacation ever! In a spontaneous turn of events, I decided to take his place in the lesson. Pourquoi pas? It had been years since I'd had a formal ski lesson, probably since I was around Charlie's age. Under the expert guidance of our instructor, Yoan, I learned so much, especially now that we were all using parabolic skis. We tackled challenging red runs, both on and off-piste, and by the end of the two-hour lesson, I was thoroughly exhausted but exhilarated. So much so that I kept skiing afterward, covering a daily goal of 20.8 miles.

Realizing the chaos that awaited us if we left on Saturday—when everyone else was also departing—we made a game-time decision to extend our stay. It was a no-brainer to avoid the traffic nightmare. And to make the most of our extended time, we secured a hotel a few doors up. As Friday night descended, the road became a sea of cars, each one packed to the brim with belongings as people hurriedly prepared for their departure. The rental shops were overflowing with people returning their gear, adding to the chaos of the scene. It was a hectic sight to behold. Amidst the frenzy, we discovered that many opted to leave at the crack of dawn on Saturday in hopes of beating the impending traffic mayhem. Gabe and I exchanged a knowing glance, silently acknowledging that extending our stay by four extra days was the right decision.

And oh, how right we were! Saturday greeted us with clear blue skies, gentle winds, and pristine snow conditions, courtesy of the previous night's snowfall. But the real cherry on top? There was hardly a soul on the mountain. It was the lull in activity, that brief period when visitors departed and new arrivals had yet to settle in. The four of us were skiing together on blue runs! We all felt the rush as we glided down the mountain with control. In that moment, as parents, it was nothing short of epic. It was a memory we will cherish forever. Check-in was not until 4 pm, so we made sure to stay on the slopes all day. This meant today would be the only day to stop mid-mountain for a leisurely French-style lunch. We ended up at a chalet called Le Caribou. A picturesque red building located partway down the Génépi piste, standing out against the snowy landscape with its rustic charm. Inside, a cozy ambiance awaited, complete with a crackling fireplace, wooden furnishings, and vintage ski décor. The menu included Alpine specialties and breathtaking mountain views from its terrace.

We moved into the hotel on Saturday afternoon. The room was cozy, to put it mildly, but stepping outside the hotel ski room was like having the mountain as our backyard. One of the best perks was the breakfast buffet included with our stay. Seeing that soft-boiled egg machine brought a smile to my face—it's the little things, right? Oh, and the game room? It was a hit with the boys. Ping pong, pool table, and even a Street Fighter arcade unit kept them entertained. Charlie especially seemed to be in his element, dominating every game against Luke. The guys also indulged in the hammam and extra-large sauna, with a window with a direct view of the slopes—right there, adding a touch of luxury to their après-ski relaxation.

However, our hotel stay wasn't without its challenges. $6 for a soda. Expensive food from the snack shack that was mediocre. One thing we learned the hard way was not to leave our gear unattended. Luke left his snowboard outside the hotel bar (people leave their skis all the time), and poof, it vanished. Dealing with the hassle of a stolen board was a downer, but we didn't let it ruin our trip. After shelling out a pretty penny for a replacement, we were back on track, determined to make the most of our remaining days in Val Thorens. Hopefully, on Friday, it will be returned by someone who thought it was their board. Maybe?

The behavior of some skiers at the lifts was ridiculous. It seemed as though they had no regard for basic etiquette—running over skis, pushing ahead in line, or cutting others off mid-mountain was all fair game. It felt like a scene straight out of rush hour traffic in France, where chaos reigns supreme and courtesy takes a backseat. Coming from Biarritz, where the atmosphere is notably different, I found myself taken aback by this stereotypical French rudeness. Up here in Val Thorens, nestled at a lofty 2300 meters above sea level, it felt like I was getting a crash course in French behavior. It's amusing, in a way, how drastically different the vibe can be from one part of France to another. But amidst the chaos, there's a certain charm to it all—a reminder of the quirks and idiosyncrasies that make each destination unique.

It's interesting how amenities in Europe differ from those in the States. Europeans seem to prioritize practicality and functionality, which often translates into more robust facilities. One notable difference I observed was the absence of outdoor heaters or firepits, which are common in the States for keeping outdoor spaces warm and inviting. Despite the chilly temperatures ranging from 0 to -11 degrees Celsius during our stay, people still gathered on restaurant terraces to enjoy their aperitifs, albeit bundled up for warmth. It's a testament to their resilience and adaptability in making the most of every moment, regardless of the weather.

Memories were made, from skiing together to savoring the quiet moments amidst the snowfall, Val Thorens captured our hearts. The surprising lack of crowds only added to the relaxed atmosphere, allowing us to truly immerse ourselves in the magic of the French Alps. Unforgettable!

For smoother planning next time, I want to remember the following. Firstly, avoid arriving or departing on a Saturday, as most residences operate on a Saturday-to-Saturday rental basis. Instead, plan to arrive in Geneva on a Friday. From there, take the train to Moutiers, where you can book a hotel for Friday night. Arrange for a transfer to the resort early Saturday morning (Cool Runnings was great). Utilize the baggage hold to store your luggage upon arrival, so you can hit the slopes right away until check-in around 4 pm. Also maybe next time we will try dog sledding, fat tire mountain biking, tubing, sledding, guided hiking tours, or even ice climbing. While it's impossible to experience everything in one trip, it's worth knowing what is offered.