Paris Encore
We had the best two days in Paris with Bryan and Stacey. Originally, our main goal was going to see the Black Pumas at the Zenith, but looking back, every moment was a highlight. We kicked off our adventure by boarding the 13h30 train from the Gare de Biarritz. Four hours flew by, aided by a train picnic complete with a bottle of wine, and soon we arrived at the Gare Montparnasse. After dropping off our bags at the Hotel Opera Liege, we wasted no time hitting the streets. Our first pitstop? A speakeasy, strategically located en route to our dinner reservation. The Golden Promise Whiskey Bar beckoned us in, though at first it was a bit lackluster—bright lights and a somewhat stale ambiance. But oh, how appearances can deceive. We walked into the side room and saw an impressive array of Sake, and descending the stairs, we discovered the true gem—a below ground bar, dark and sultry. The cocktail menu, with black and gold images on thick white paper, had unusual concoctions with equally creative names.
I chose the "Butter Me Up" featuring mezcal, annanas, beurre, and poivre longue, while Stacey went for the "G. Polemos" blending pisco, whiskey, pomplenouse, and celeri. Gabe found himself really impressed by the whiskey list. As for Bryan's choice, it slips my mind, lost amidst the whirlwind of flavors and laughter. After we ordered our drinks, we glanced at the clock, and to our surprise, it was already 21h30! Our dinner reservation at Shabour wasn't until 22h15, which initially seemed late, but turned out to be just perfect.
In fact, we even ended up running late. Shabour was amazing. The staff were incredibly welcoming from the moment we walked in. One of them even remembered Bryan and Stacey from their last visit nearly 1.5 years ago! Bryan exchanged numbers with him, and I expect to see him in Biarritz in a few months. The restaurant's layout was cool, with the kitchen situated in the center and a counter encircling it for diners to observe each dish being plated right before their eyes. The standout food for me was the challah bread, served individually in a brioche baking dish. I could have easily devoured ten of them, though thankfully, I restrained myself considering the array of courses ahead. Among the highlights was the scallop course with dry coral and bronze fennel paired with a 2000 Au Bon Climat from Santa Barbara. The pairing of wine from California while dining in Paris was a surprise, and it turned out to be perfect. We had a soft-boiled egg with the best tahini I've ever tasted, followed by turbot with a buerre blanc foam, and then pigeon with a pomegranate mollase and harissa. Finally, dessert arrived, Malabi, a milk pudding served with rosemary, bay leaves, and thyme-lemon cream—a perfect ending. Well not the ending, the final offering was a bowl of pistachios and oranges. It felt like the entire Middle East had come together on our plates. The flavors, spices, and ingredients from various regions were harmoniously combined, creating a culinary journey that transcended borders. It's a poignant thought, isn't it? If only the Middle East could find the same harmony and unity as the diverse flavors of its cuisine. Bryan engaged our Israeli server/chef in conversation about the region's complexities. Despite his reluctance to discuss such matters at work, he shared his deep anger and sorrow, having lost many close to him. He made a poignant statement, expressing frustration: "He should just be a war criminal and get it done." His words underscored the human toll of the conflicts, leaving us with a somber reminder of the urgent need for peace in the Middle East. It was 2 am when we finally left Shabour! We made our way to the metro entrance and were greeted by a bustling scene of young people in the bars, dressed to the nines and enjoying the vibrant nightlife of Paris. What a night to remember!
The next day, we made a stop at Sézane so I could indulge in a bit of shopping. I've always been a fan of their brand, but it was my first time experiencing their store in person—I usually shop online. Afterward, we treated ourselves to a delicious lunch at Les Enfants du Marche, a favorite spot of ours in Paris. I won't go into as much detail as I did for Shabour, but trust me, it's a must-visit if you're in the city. With our appetites satisfied, we moved on to the first Mark Rothko retrospective in France since 1999 at the Fondation Louis Vuitton. Featuring 115 works from major international collections and private holdings, the exhibition spans Rothko's entire career. Displayed chronologically, it showcases his evolution from early figurative paintings to his iconic abstract masterpieces. What struck me most was the way Rothko's paintings evoked different emotions. But what emotion? At first glance, it's easy to assume that the vibrant reds and yellows exude happiness, while the dark blacks and grays evoke sadness. I noticed a complex interplay of emotions, where joy and sorrow, light and darkness coexist in harmony. Pretty cool.
We squeezed in a quick 30-minute power nap before going to the opposite end of Paris to catch the Black Pumas at the Zenith. With a capacity of nearly 7,000 people, the sold-out concert venue was packed to the brim, and the heat was unbearable—Stacey and I even had "hot ears"! It was a far cry from the intimate setting of the Independent in San Francisco, where Gabe and I last saw them perform for a crowd of 500. Tonight's show was on a whole other level, complete with a light show and intense energy. Despite the audience in the seats staying relatively subdued, our section couldn't resist the infectious rhythm of "More than a Love Song," and we all jumped up to dance. It was a fleeting moment of pure joy. After the show, we hopped on the Metro in search of a late-night dim sum spot, only to find out they all closed by 22h30. Stacey managed to find one in St Germain de Pres, but upon arrival, we discovered it was closed. Despite the setback, we found a brasserie where we indulged in moules, tartare, and pasta—definitely not a bad way to end the day.
The next day, we had a few hours left in Paris, so we wandered around the 9th arrondissement. We stumbled upon the most incredible rugalach and babka, along with a boulangerie serving up delicious sandwiches, which we devoured on the train ride back to Biarritz. Meanwhile, Gabe indulged his passion for photography, treating himself to a Hasselblad at a camera store, and then we made a final stop at the Maille mustard store to sample and purchase mustard right from the tap. We went all over Paris. It sounds like a whirlwind, but surprisingly, we never felt overwhelmed. Despite walking over 24,000 steps on Saturday alone, we managed to sleep in and accomplish everything on our agenda. I may be completely exhausted, but I know I'll remember this weekend forever as being the first (and best) time in Paris with friends.
While we were away, the boys spent the two days with Trish Taylor. They had a great time and were good lads.
