Firenze
We're at the train station in Bologna. Early because who needs that stress? We are waiting on the platform, minding our own business, when we notice young American girls lugging around ginormous suitcases and talking at a volume that could wake the dead. Fast forward a few minutes, two of them realize they've hopped onto the wrong train. Panic mode sets in, they're frantically trying to reach their friend in another coach, but – no connection, nada. Meanwhile, the train's signaling it's about to depart the station. And there we are witnessing this whole circus unfold. So, of course, we turn it into a teachable moment, explaining how to make sure you're boarding the right train. I hope they eventually figured it out and are probably having a good laugh about the whole mishap now. I hope.
Our train arrived on time, and as we boarded, we were met with a sea of people and luggage crammed into every available space. Finding room for our own hand luggage was a challenge in itself. As we settled into our seats, we witnessed a young girl struggling to find her place amidst the chaos. With a hesitant voice, she showed a man and woman her reservation on her phone, politely explaining that she had reserved the seat they were occupying. The man's response was brusque and dismissive, telling her to take another seat without any consideration for her predicament. Gabe and I were taken aback by the man's lack of empathy. A simple, polite explanation would have sufficed, yet he chose to be rude instead. Fast forward 30 minutes, as we approached the train station, the woman, left alone by her companion who had wandered off to find his suitcase, approached Luke and asked him to help retrieve her oversized luggage. Luke hesitated, realizing the difficulty of the task, and Gabe intervened, refusing to let Luke struggle with the cumbersome bag. With a calm demeanor, Gabe assured the woman that he would assist her once the train had come to a complete stop. But it wasn't just about the luggage. In that moment, Gabe took the opportunity to address the earlier incident with the young girl, emphasizing the importance of kindness and consideration toward fellow travelers. It was a small yet powerful act of standing up for what's right, and it left a lasting impression on all of us.
We arrived at 13:00, ready to dive into the city's charms. First things first. The Medici family. They rose to prominence during the Italian Renaissance, wielding immense political power and influence. They were patrons of the arts, fostering the careers of Michelangelo and Leonardo da Vinci. Despite facing intrigue and rivalries, the Medici dynasty left a lasting legacy, shaping not only the cultural landscape of Italy but also the course of European history. This was my attempt to get the boys engaged in our exploration here. I think they were impressed.
A Florentine lunch was next. Here, steak is served with a simplicity that allows the quality of the meat to shine. Typically, it's presented as a thick cut of beef, often from the prized Chianina or Maremmana cattle breeds, grilled to perfection over an open flame. The steak is usually seasoned only with salt and pepper, allowing its natural flavors to take center stage. This culinary tradition reflects the Florentine commitment to honoring the integrity of the ingredients and celebrating the essence of Tuscan cuisine. At this place, the steak came with a small bowl filled with black salt. Our server guided us through a ritual – we drizzled oil onto our plates, sprinkled a bit of black salt, then crushed it with our forks before dipping the steak into the fragrant mixture. The result? Pure culinary bliss! This lunch was so good! Next, we crossed the iconic Ponte Vecchio, we marveled at its centuries-old beauty before venturing into Mercato Nuovo, where we rubbed the bronze wild boar statue's nose for luck. It may have been touristy, but who can resist a bit of superstition? Our plans to visit the interior of the Duomo Santa Maria del Fiore were dashed by sold-out tickets and long lines, but we made the most of it, admiring the breathtaking architecture from afar. Mental note: next time, book tickets in advance to climb Brunelleschi's dome. As the boys succumbed to exhaustion, Gabe and I seized the opportunity for a quiet moment together. Venturing out on a leisurely stroll, just the two of us, we stumbled upon a hidden gem—a hip spot perfectly suited for an aperitivo. With cocktails in hand, we toasted to the magic of the moment. Then we walked along the Arno river basking in the warm glow of the setting sun. As hues of orange and pink painted the sky, we savored each precious second, cherishing the beauty of the moment and the depth of our connection. It was so romantic and special.
Day Two dawned bright and early, drawing us to the Accademia Gallery to behold Michelangelo's David. The statue's larger-than-life head and hands is a testament to Michelangelo's masterful craftsmanship. It's said that David's exaggerated features, particularly his powerful hands and imposing head, symbolize his strength and determination in the face of adversity. As for his gaze towards Rome, it's believed to have been a deliberate message from Florence, asserting its defiance and readiness to defend itself against external threats. Experiencing David in person was nothing short of incredible. To witness the sheer scale and intricate details of this masterpiece firsthand was amazing. It's one of those iconic works of art that you simply can't skip, despite its touristy reputation. Trust me, it's worth every bit of the hype, and then some. Racing against the clock, we made our way to the Uffizi Galleria. Stepping inside, we were immediately enveloped in a world of biblical art, with each room boasting an immense collection of religious masterpieces. From iconic works depicting scenes from the life of Christ to dramatic interpretations of biblical narratives, the Uffizi seemed to overflow with spiritual imagery. Yet, amidst the beauty and reverence, there was an undeniable discomfort in the air. The sheer volume of visitors, coupled with the lack of adequate ventilation, made for stifling conditions in many of the gallery rooms. Yet, despite the discomfort, we pressed on, determined to soak in as much of the Uffizi's collection as possible. From Botticelli's ethereal Birth of Venus to Caravaggio's powerful Medusa, we were reminded of the enduring legacy of Renaissance art. Alright, the collection is impressive. But if I'm being real, this era of art history isn't quite my vibe. The constant flow of biblical scenes starts to feel a bit repetitive after a while. Still, I can't deny the sheer talent and dedication poured into every brushstroke. I think we're all craving a little dose of modern art to mix things up a bit.
Two hours of art immersion left us ravenous, and we stumbled upon a charming spot for a plate of pasta. After a rejuvenating nap, we explored the San Croce neighborhood, where Charlie got an Italian haircut. The sun dipped below the horizon, casting a golden glow over the Arno River.
The following morning, Gabe had a meeting, so the boys and I decided to explore Piazza San Croce. We stumbled upon a French market brimming with goodies from all over France – cookies from Brittany, soaps from Provence, perfumes from Grasse. We also found the leather school, where we saw sewing machines and various leather working tools. The sandwich spots were all buzzing with activity, and it was clear this was the meal to have at this time of day. After scouting out the shortest line, we ordered sandwiches on schiacciate, a crispy and chewy Tuscan bread. And finally, the long-awaited affogato. Delizioso! I had many places saved on my Google Maps, and one of them was an active wine window. Wine windows, known as "buchette del vino" in Italian, originated in the 16th century during plague outbreaks. To prevent the spread of disease, businesses closed, but wine sales were allowed for medicinal purposes. To maintain social distancing, wine producers installed small, hinged windows at street level for contactless sales. While their necessity waned over time, some have been preserved as historical relics. Once there were over 150 of these wine windows scattered all over the city, but now, there's only a handful left – maybe three, or if you believe one guide, perhaps ten. It's definitely on the cheesy side, but I couldn't resist giving it a try. It was actually pretty cute and fun. Of course, you gotta be willing to pay a bit extra for the novelty of it all. When you wander aimlessly through a city, you often stumble upon hidden gems like the Florence Botanical Gardens. Established in 1545, by Grand Duke Cosimo dei Medici, these gardens have a rich history. Originally known as the "Giardino dei Semplici," they were used for cultivating medicinal plants and are the third oldest botanical gardens in the world, after those in Padua and Pisa. Charlie was thrilled to escape the city bustle and immerse himself in the lush greenery. As we explored, we encountered greenhouses teeming with orchids, rows of citrus trees, an array of edible plants, and even a majestic sequoia semprevirens, a redwood!
On Friday, we had reserved a time slot to explore the Boboli Gardens at Palazzo Pitti, and what an adventure it turned out to be! Charlie's joy at being surrounded by nature was infectious, guiding us through the expansive grounds with enthusiasm. With Charlie as our trusty guide, we navigated the labyrinthine paths, traversing meadows, shaded groves, and ornate fountains. The panoramic views from the highest point, overlooking Florence and the rolling hills of Tuscany, took our breath away. Mental note: pack sandwiches for a leisurely picnic next time – the perfect way to soak in the beauty of these gardens. Later, before our dinner reservation, we stopped by a wine bar, where to our surprise, we ran into the young girl from the train. It was a small world moment. And of course, no day in Florence would be complete without indulging in gelato, with Sbrino Gelatoficio Contadino earning our vote for the best in town! (We had gelato everyday! lol)
And finally, the final day of our two week Italian vacation. We bid adieu to Florence with a leisurely stroll through rain-kissed streets, pausing for coffee and card games before catching our flight. Italy, with your diverse landscapes and rich history, you've left a mark on our hearts. Grazie mille for the memories!