Bologna
Being in Bologna felt like stepping into a culinary and historical wonderland. After a train ride from Venezia, we arrived just in time to dive into the deliciousness of tagliatelle Bolognese for lunch. The weather forecast predicted rain for days, so we suited up in our rain jackets and hit the streets. To our surprise, the sky cleared as we ventured out, revealing a bustling scene at Piazza Maggiore. Groups of people sat around, chatting and enjoying food, while various musicians filled the air with music. The grandeur of Piazza Maggiore greeted us, with Neptune's Fountain standing as a timeless sentinel. Our Airbnb host had left us an extensive guide, including the intriguing "7 secrets of Bologna." One of them led us to Piazza del Nettuno, where, from a specific angle, Neptune's statue revealed an optical illusion, much to our amusement. Neptune’s thumb lines up so that sea good appears to be … perky. Exploring further, we stumbled upon the porticoes of Piazza Cavour before finding the Quadrilatero, Bologna's oldest outdoor market and shopping area. We uncovered many culinary delights, meandering through narrow streets filled with local delicacies. At one point, the rain came down heavily, so we found a covered spot on the Piazza Maggiore to enjoy Mortadella and Crescentina Modenese, a traditional, disk-shaped Italian bread that is crispy on the exterior and soft on the interior. Before this moment, I had never wanted Mortadella or liked it. But sliced super thin and made without preservatives and whatever else in the US, this was so tasty.
Day Two dawned rainy, but our spirits remained undampened as we ventured into a Parmigiana cheese shop, savoring the region's richness. Another secret from our guide led us to Little Venice, a hidden window in the city's past. Inside Mercato delle Erbe, we delved deeper into Bologna's food scene, enjoying a soul-warming bowl of tortellini in beef broth at Noi. Palazzo d'Accursio awaited us, with 14th-century frescoes, while the halls of Archiginnasio Palace whispered tales of the world's oldest university, an institution of knowledge since 1838.
Our time in Bologna was fleeting, but filled with unforgettable experiences. As we boarded the train bound for Florence, we bid farewell to Bologna with a promise to return. And when we do, a scoop of gelato at Cremeria Santo Stefano will be our first stop. Until next time, Bologna.