Los Americanos Que Viven en Biarritz
We had the most incredible 30 minutes in San Sebastian, perhaps the best ever. Initially, our plan was a straightforward one - just swing by Mimi, the cooking school where Gabe and Luna attended, to grab some olive oil from Patricio. I casually parked on the sidewalk, hazards on, waiting for Gabe, only to receive a text instructing me to park because Patricio wanted to personally guide us to the olive oil store. What we anticipated as a quick pick-up morphed into an impromptu culinary tour. He revealed the Mercado de la Bretxa's secrets on where to procure the finest meat, cheese, and vegetables. He also pointed out a few local gems in the Parte Vieja. Time was of the essence as we had a noon meeting with Charlie's teacher back in Biarritz, so Patricio, being well-aware, kicked things into high gear.
Our first stop was at Lurka Chocolate. We exchanged waves with the chocolate maestro/owner and indulged in two delights - a chocolate cake and a cheesecake. Choosing the better one was difficult. Now with breakfast out of the way, we went into Bar Gorriti. Patricio said that it's the best-kept secret, hoping it remains that way. He shared that the owner extends a helping hand to those in need, providing jobs when others won't. So, you might encounter some unconventional characters, contributing to the establishment by setting up tables or bringing napkins, compensated in meals. Sipping on our cider, we ate Morras, thinly sliced meat (mouth, tongue, cheek) on toothpicks with olives and crisp white onions. It was a first for me, and I must say, it might just be the ultimate pintxo experience I've ever had.
Next, we entered the market, Patricio introduced us to several shopkeepers, proudly declaring us as his friends from Biarritz, specifically telling each one to etch Gabe's face into their memory because we will be back. This was funny - Patricio pointed out a meat guy with a good product but said they weren't on friendly terms, so no purchases from him. Yolanda, Maryam, Yon, and the others we met had the best products. They offered us samples of jamon, olives, and cheese. Ultimately, we left with the best Jamon Iberico and olives, racing back to Biarritz. Although brief, this culinary escapade was an unexpected delight that will be etched in my memory forever.
A few other things that went on this week:
December 5 - Charlie went to the cinema with his class to see a film. Here is the text stream from Stacey who was the parent chaperone. “I’m chaperoning the film this morning sitting behind Evie and Charlie in the theatre. The film is about to start and Charlie asks me what it is about - I have no idea. Lights go dark and he turns to me and says, “I just hope it’s not anime”…. It’s so funny, Evie keeps turning back to me and saying, “awww,” and Charlie turns back at me and is like wtf is happening here.”
December 6: St. Nicolas - We sang from our big red door. “Ô grand Saint Nicolas, Patron des écoliers Apporte-moi des … Venez, venez, Saint Nicolas, et tra la la...” The boys left carrots for his donkey.
December 7: Took Ezra to San Sebastian for the day. Drank Txakoli, ate pintxos, and walked around. I believe he had a good time.
Returned to the market, and Maryam, the cheese lady, looked up, exclaiming, "Los Americanos que viven in Biarritz!" They all remembered us. Patricio’s connections are the real deal. There's something special about being recognized by these folks; it makes us feel like we're more than just visitors. It's a unique sense of connection and belonging - like we're becoming a part of the local fabric.
December 7: First night of Hanukkah at the Sivaks'. Bryan nailed the latkes, the best I've ever had. Stacey's short ribs were a hit along with the matzah ball soup, and Wendi's cheesecake sealed the deal. Good food, good times, and a nod to our religious freedom in these uncertain times.
A funny text exchange:
Gabe: So I came back from San Sebastian with some epic Spanish ham and chorizo. Is it inappropriate to bring that to a Jewish celebration?
Stacey: Dude, we are rocking a Christmas tree on this first night of Hanukkah - we make our own règles!