Chef Luna Visits
Luna just arrived, and Gabe has gone into full work mode, having planned an incredible two-week food tour with the help of our new friends here in Biarritz. This first week is all about exploring the Basque country. Some key stops include the best Spanish tortilla at Bar Antonio, a classic Basque lunch in Asier's neighborhood, weekday markets, cooking classes, and, of course, a few Michelin-rated restaurants. I'm joining in on some of these adventures, and the first stop was at La Table Sebastian in Bayonne. Having Stacey and Bryan with us made the meal even better. They've become the best new friends, we all just click so well. La Table Sebastian lived up to its reputation, impressing us with a fantastic lunch. The combination of great food, wonderful company, and charming ambiance made it a good beginning.
Our plans to dine at Tralala for dinner didn't work out since they're closed for the week. No worries, though—spontaneity led us to the Halles 5 Cantons. The Chipiron guy was on point, and the food was excellent. This ended up being the only full family meal with Luna, and we all had a blast.
Bryan worked his magic and secured a reservation at Etxebarri, a Basque restaurant in Atxondo. Renowned for flame-grilled meats and seafood, it's ranked the 3rd best restaurant in the world. Gabe orchestrated a memorable day which started with a visit to the historic market in Ordizia, thanks to a tip from Sassoune. It’s been happening every Wednesday for over 500 years. As we strolled through the village, the entire town seemed to be the market. It was a blend of tradition and vitality. We encountered a goat milk cheese artisan who not only tends to the goats but crafts the most perfect cheese. The dedication and care were evident in every bite. Additionally, we discovered tubs of olives, unmarked but signaling a promise – no preservatives. Ordizia's market wasn't just a marketplace; it was a journey into culinary heritage.
Etxebarri. We had a five-hour lunch featuring a tasting menu with wine pairings. Chef Victor Arguinzoniz's grill expertise shone through in every dish. The relaxed pace allowed us to savor each element, and the service was fantastic. It was more than just a meal; it was an immersive experience celebrating Basque culinary traditions. In paying tribute to Emile Hawley, we made sure our food and wine descriptions were filled with unusual details, steering clear of any pretentiousness. Each course became a lively narrative in a down-to-earth manner that resonated with everyone at the table. It was about appreciating the meal without getting overly complex. My favorite moment had to be when our spunky server playfully called out Luna for holding the knife the "wrong" way. I swear, I almost toppled out of my chair laughing. In all fairness, that knife design was confusing, and I found myself doing the same knife-flipping dance. The way Luna got caught and the fact that he is a professional chef — it was just too hilarious. I'm relieved that Luna took the whole knife-handling comedy in stride.
While we were enjoying that fantastic lunch, the kids had their own adventure unfolding. Luke managed his way to school from 9 to 11 am, and with Wednesday being Charlie's day off, he navigated his own plans. Bryan's girls were engaged in various activities, but since all the adults were out for the day, each kid had to get themselves to their designated place. We orchestrated a little meet-up plan by having Lexi and Luke exchange numbers. Turns out, they decided to order dinner from CAB burger. They then hung out at the Sivak house until our return around 8 pm. To my surprise, the house was spotless, dishes neatly stowed away, and the four of them were just chilling and watching a show. It's moments like these that make me immensely proud of their independence and responsibility. Go, kids!
The next day, Gabe and Luna embarked on a San Sebastian adventure, leaving me in charge of school pickup and dinner duty. All was going smoothly until Gabe sent me a message that Sassoune had invited us to his social club in the Bibi to meet a friend who lives in Biarritz but originally is from Salinas. In a hurry, I made dinner and then joined Gabe and Luna to explore this hidden gem in town. Saying "made" might be an understatement—I'm absolutely loving the traiteur here. I walk in, peruse the array of fantastic prepared foods, request a meal for three, and they provide me with the temperature and cooking time for later. I, the not-so-master chef, managed to “cook” dinner! Cue the applause—or laughter, depending on your perspective. Back to the social club, the place, once a neighborhood bathhouse, has transformed into a community space for various events. The walls were adorned with old photos and posters chronicling the neighborhood's history. The atmosphere was buzzing with locals, creating a fantastic vibe. Luna found his way into the bustling kitchen, absorbing all the culinary action while we engaged with Kay, the Salinas native turned English teacher. With a trip to Carmel on the horizon, Luna and Kay exchanged numbers, and we found ourselves enjoying conversations. Wendi and Sasoune have welcomed us into their circle of friends, adding another layer of warmth and community to our time in Biarritz. Grateful for these unexpected connections that make our stay even more special.
The culinary adventure continues as Gabe and Luna dive into a cooking class in San Sebastian, followed by the three of us enjoying dinner at Akelare. It's a place that holds a special memory for Gabe and me from 20 years ago—a lunch with a soup featuring pop rocks that created a popping sensation in our mouths, a feeling I vividly recall. Nestled on Mount Igueldo, it has stunning views of the Bay of Biscay. Led by Chef Pedro Subijana, this three-Michelin-starred gem is renowned for its avant-garde approach to Basque cuisine showcasing local ingredients. I can't wait to share this culinary journey with Gabe and Luna tonight.
My time with the guys and their food tour concludes. Sassoune has a special culinary tour lined up tomorrow, and then they fly to Italy where the white truffle steals the spotlight. They will spend the next week in Alba.
This marks my first solo week in France with the boys. It's a regular week with school, a sprinkle of activities, and warm weather (yay)! Sunday Surfmamas. Monday is packed with excitement for me. Stacey and I have a morning Pilates class lined up, followed by a French tutoring session for both Charlie and Luke in the late afternoon. The real thrill, though, is making a new French friend, Cécile. She suggested meeting for coffee to speak French together!! All I wanted to blurt out was, "I've been looking for you!" But, of course, I kept my cool and replied with a calm "Bien sûr." As we stood in the aisle of the Halles, chatting away in French, I made a sincere effort to understand, and by the end, we successfully planned a Monday coffee. However, as I walked away, I had to be honest with myself—I realized I probably comprehended about 10% of what she said. Well, it's better than 0%, right?
