Saumur
We had a fun two days in Saumur and nearby areas. Our apartment was chic and comfy in the centre ville. The breakfast provided by the Maison Gaspard café downstairs was incredible. A lavish spread of various breads, pastries, and yogurt with local honey awaited us. The selection also included salmon, ham, a hard boiled egg, and of course, coffee. The boys indulged in a rich, chocolaty hot chocolate, using it as a dipping sauce for everything they could find. It was a feast and definitely way too much sugar to start the day. Our first stop was the troglodyte dwellings, just 20 minutes from our place along the Loire River. The whole area is filled with caves. We checked out Les Pommes Tapées du Val de Loire, but it felt like a tourist trap, not that exciting. As we walked away, a quirky guy from a lush garden invited us to see his "chateau."
He's an artsy type who's spent years restoring chateaus. His current place was a wreck when he bought it six years ago—chickens on one floor, pigeons on another, and the last tenant had let it deteriorate. The last two years have been all about restoring it. The bottom floor was almost done. Inside, it was like entering an eccentric gallery. Paintings, antique furniture, Asian/Persian rugs, mirrors—his cave was a mix of styles. Yes, his cave! He even had a working kitchen with a fridge and stove tucked into the depths of the cave. I kept wondering how he got all this stuff in through those small cave openings. It was a cool experience, and we learned that modern troglodytes thrive all along the Loire! Who knew?
Next we went to Fontevraud-l'Abbaye, an immense medieval monastery. This is another historical gem. Established in 1101, it houses the tomb of Richard the Lion Heart. During Napoleon's reign, it was transformed into a heavily guarded prison, a role it played until 1963, when the restoration efforts took precedence. Strolling through its grounds, we were impressed. With the kids having their fill of sightseeing, we redirected our path towards the town of Chinon. Our goal: to find a wine shop where we could drink a bottle of Chinon while playing a game of Couillon. Chinon is a town that has certainly earned a spot on our list for future visits.
