Oviedo & More

Sam and Francesca told us that Manu Chao was playing near Oviedo. What did we do? We bought tickets, found an Airbnb, and reached out to Melissa and Mike Hale, who live in Oviedo, hoping to grab coffee or lunch while we're in town. Oviedo is a four-hour drive from here—a bit far for a weekend, but neither of us has ever seen Manu Chao live, and the boys love his music. So, Oviedo, here we come!

We left after school. The drive from Biarritz to Oviedo was breathtaking, hugging the coastline of northern Spain with the Bay of Biscay on one side and lush hills on the other. As we crossed into Spain, the landscape got even more dramatic, with rugged cliffs and seaside villages along the way. Every twist and turn gave us amazing views, making the four-hour journey feel short because there was so much to see. We arrived around 10 pm. Our Airbnb had a wall arcade with every old-school game imaginable—the boys were stoked! We had a late dinner, Spanish style, and were happy to discover that a glass of wine cost just 2.30 euros. What? This town truly felt like Spain, not a tourist trap. The terraces were buzzing with people, kids were playing soccer in the square, fountains were splashing blue water, and Real Oviedo flags were flying from many windows. We stayed up super late preparing for tomorrow night's concert, which starts at 11 p.m.

The boys slept in, so Gabe and I found a little cafe and ordered a cortado. We enjoyed this quiet time together, sipping our coffee, people-watching, and gearing up for a long day. Once the boys were ready, we headed to the Mercado El Fontán - a historic market in Oviedo's heart. This market is filled with vendors and shoppers, as colorful stalls overflow with fresh produce, artisanal cheeses, cured meats, and local delicacies. The market had wrought-iron balconies and a traditional Asturian design, making it a must-visit spot to get an authentic taste of the region. There were also vendors on the surrounding streets selling clothing, hats, quilted jackets, underwear, socks, everything. Gabe waited patiently at one stall to buy olives, much to the annoyance of the boys. However, it was a worthwhile stop because those olives were the best we've had yet.

For lunch, we met up with Melissa and Mike Hale on Gascona, also known as "Cider Boulevard," a lively street in Oviedo dotted with traditional cider houses. It's the perfect spot to dive into Asturian culture firsthand. Along Gascona, you'll find sidrerías serving Asturian cider paired with dishes like fabada (bean stew) and chorizo a la sidra (chorizo cooked in cider). We had a grilled seafood and vegetable board, rib meat, and potatoes. The highlight was watching the server pour cider using a unique technique with a large, elongated cylinder called a "culín." This method prevents splashing and aerates the cider as it flows into the glass. The server holds the bottle high above their head, letting the cider cascade down enhancing its flavor and aroma before it reaches the glass. Throughout our meal, he kept filling our glasses, which was fun! After lunch, we walked over to the Hales' place for coffee and dessert. Their apartment has a beautiful view of the Asturian Hills and the Cathedral of San Salvador.

We had such a nice visit and then continued with our day. After a much needed siesta, we met up with Sam, Francesca, and Alfie for an aperitivo and dinner before heading to the concert, just a 20-minute drive away. The venue, Pozo Barreo is nestled among the Asturian Hills. (This was an underground coal mine). The stage was set against a backdrop of rolling hills and under a canopy of stars. As Manu Chao and his band took the stage, the crowd erupted into cheers and applause. His mix of reggae, ska, punk, and Latin rhythms filled the air, captivating everyone there. People danced and sang along to every song. Between songs, he shared messages of unity, social justice, and love, though it seemed like he was wrapping up and then launching into another round of beats. It definitely kept the audience engaged, even if it got a bit repetitive. On the flip side, it was awesome to see the boys really getting into it. Luke found a spot on the side where he danced the whole show. At one point, we moved back a bit due to the crowd and noise, but to our surprise, the sound improved significantly, and we had more room to boogie. Charlie was dancing his heart out, and when we sang "Bongo Bong" together, it felt like a special parent-child moment. It's pretty cool to share this music. Merci et Gracias, Manu.

The next day, we left Oviedo and headed back to Biarritz to meet the Taylor family. However, since it was Father's Day, Gabe decided we should stop in Santander for lunch. We found a local spot and ate some delicious food. After satisfying our appetites, we resumed our journey back to Biarritz. Reuniting with the Taylors was wonderful, and we had dinner overlooking the Port Vieux. During their visit, we walked around town (one day we even walked all the way to Anglet), and Henry and Josie had surf lessons while the boys were in school. One day, we all walked to pick up Charlie from school, and another day Luke, Charlie, and Josie spent time at the beach with Luke’s friends.

Then, something unexpected happened. We received a text from Meredith and Rob Weil saying they would be at Gare du Bayonne at 5 p.m. Gabe and I thought, "That’s only 15 minutes away—can they make a stop to visit?" Plans were quickly made, and before we knew it, we were enjoying an apéro in our apartment with Meredith and Rob. It was such a fun surprise! They were on their way to St. Jean Pied du Port to start the Camino de Santiago. Since there were no available cars, buses, or trains, they stayed the night with us. We had a wonderful evening with them and the Taylors at Le Surfing, and the next morning, Gabe drove them to their starting point. I'm so glad everything worked out smoothly. Overall, it was a fantastic time spent with everyone. Our final visitors have come and gone now.

Gabe flew back to Carmel to help Sheila, and he plans to return at the beginning of July. Meanwhile, I am busy packing up our things and making arrangements to sell the car (with Bruno’s help) and other major items we bought this year. Honestly, I have no idea how I’ll manage the exit. The tricky part is that we leave here on July 15 for Greece. We'll have so many bags, but thankfully we can store them at the hotel in Athens while we go island hopping. It’s going to be complicated—maybe we should just return to California on the 15th instead? We'll see what makes the most sense. Meanwhile, the boys are finishing up their school year. Luke has completed his classes and received “felicitations” on his third report card—we're incredibly proud of him, as earning "Felicitations" isn't easy with French teachers. Charlie presented a poem in front of his entire class and is absolutely over the moon that he did it! He's also wrapping up his final tests and preparing for the end-of-year spectacle, which will be on Tuesday. The entire school performs for the parents, at the Casino. I am excited to finally see what the inside looks like!

I must be honest: being here without Gabe doesn’t feel right, and I'm feeling a mix of anxiety, lack of confidence, and overwhelm. But I know I need to find my ‘cajones’ and make the best of this time with the boys. It's time to find my voice in French, my motivation to tackle things on my own, and just handle shit here so Gabe can focus on Sheila.

The next few weeks will be a whirlwind, but we'll manage it all. Here's to making the most of our time, enjoying every moment with our friends, and staying calm.