Napoli
Finally, we set foot in Napoli, and the chaos embraced us. Napoli, colorful and chaotic. Giuseppe’s sister and family, our local guides, whisked us through the city's pulse, showing us everything at Italian speed. We toured Via Toledo, the Spaccanapoli, and all over where the streets were alive with the hustle and bustle of Napoli. The handmade nativity scenes, the oldest market with fish piled in bins on the street, and the crowded narrow streets filled with people on motos, horns beeping, it was all so vibrant, so alive, so much "soul," as Carmen likes to say, "Capito!?" Every turn it seemed that Carmen had something for us to try or see. It was amazing! Despite the intense trash problem, which is piled up everywhere, the city's energy and liveliness are contagious. We ate pizza fritte and Florintinea, and bread filled with ragu. Pausing for an Aperol spritz near Greek ruins was a relief on our feet. We tried fiocco di neve, then indulged in an aperitivo at the Belle Epoque 19th-century café, Gambrinus. We were already so full but we continued with dinner at Mattozzi Pizza which left us full to the brim. We walked through Chiaia afterward on our way back to our apartment. What a tour.
Day Two - Sunday:
Today was the day for a ferry to Procida, a 4km island with 20 churches. The day started early, meeting the Pastore family at the port at 9 am. Carmen pointed out all of the landmarks on our way to Procida. Upon arrival, we had the traditional lingua di Procida, a puff pastry stuffed with lemon cream, at Bar Roma. We hopped onto a Chris Craft to sail around the island. Luigi, a friend of Carmen and Marco, was our capitan. We anchored the boat for a swim and lunch. Charlie and Gabe jumped into the Mediterranean, but then Charlie was stung by a jellyfish, leading to Luke's hilarious shout, "Can I pee on it?" Charlie was a trooper as I am sure that his fingers were burning the rest of the day. For lunch, we had the best mozzarella I ever had with bruschetta, sautéed peppers with olives, pasta with Napoletana Mussels, and drank Falanghina. We anchored at one more spot for one more dip in the Med. The water was refreshing and so salty, but we were all looking around for any little medusas. After the boat ride, we had two hours to walk around the island. We explored the ancient village of Terra Murata, and we went all around the island to the top and back down to Corricella for an apéritivo and sunset at Blu bar. I shared with the Pastore family how I have been searching for door 8. We found several and even on Procida, they were not great. So now the whole Pastore family is into searching for a “good 8.” We got on the last ferry at 20:15 for a chilly ride back to the port. This was a glorious day! Molte grazie to the Pastore family who were the most amazing hosts.
Day Three - Monday:
It’s our 24th Anniversary! 24 years and it just keeps getting better. We decided to sleep in and then spent the day walking around and shopping. Thanks to Carmen’s tour of the city on Saturday, we had a good grasp of where we were and where to go. Gabe found an excellent lunch spot at Biancomangiari Cucina et Cantina. Charlie finally lost his tooth that was practically hanging by a thread. A nap was essential before exploring the Vomero neighborhood. We tackled the “Stairs of Naples,” ancient pedestrian paths connecting Vomero Hill with the city center and the coast. I think Charlie cried the whole way, stating that he was going to die. I'm not sure how many steps there were, but it took a good 30 minutes of non-stop steps. Our goal was to see the sunset at the fortress of Castel Sant'Elmo that looks down over the entire city of Naples. But we got there too late, and it was closed and dark. Truth be told, on our way, I found the cutest store and ended up finding some great clothing finds - designed and made in Italy! So we missed the sunset, but it was still cool to be up there and see the city lights and feel triumph for conquering all those stairs. The walk down was not any easier on our knees, lol.
Day Four - Tuesday:
We planned a morning in Pompeii. With the help of Dario, our guide from www.Withlocals.com, we explored Pompeii, an experience that left us in awe as we walked through the ancient ruins frozen in time, feeling the weight of history all around us. We learned many details from Dario, such as how to tell if an area was a merchant store or a residence, all about the gambling culture in Pompeii, he pointed out that even back then they had speed bumps and crosswalks … and so much more! As we strolled through the bathhouse that still had a roof, I couldn't help but wonder, how did that survive? There were red poppies in bloom everywhere and Mt. Vesuvius stood tall behind us. This was really cool to see. We went back to Naples for lunch near the Venus in Rags sculpture which was recommended by our taxi driver. Later that night, we walked down to the coast area, had Negroni with snacks, and enjoyed dinner at a classic osteria, savoring clams and pasta. The rain came pouring down, and we were grateful we had brought our rain jackets.
Day Five - Wednesday:
Today we spent hours in the Archaeology Museum, considered the best in Europe. The collection of items recovered from Pompeii left us mind-blown as we marveled at the everyday objects, perfectly preserved, giving us an intimate glimpse into the lives of people who lived nearly two millennia ago. We went into The Secret Museum or Secret Cabinet which is the collection of 1st-century Roman erotic art found in Pompeii and Herculaneum. The boys walked by some risqué exhibits, completely passing the marble statue of Satyr and Nymph having sex or the wall of erotic frescoes. However, they couldn't contain their amusement at the array of penis sculptures. Another highlight were the mosaics. From mythological scenes to daily life depictions, the mosaics provided a glimpse into the artistry and culture of the past. There were so many things to see here - I totally agree, this is the most comprehensive collection. Luke kept sharing information about several pieces that he learned from Ms. Keaton, like the famous Anphora, adorned with intricate illustrations, depicted scenes from Greek mythology. The boys didn’t want to leave the museum!
We had lunch at 'A Figlia d''o Marenaro a classic seafood spot recommended by our trusty taxi man! After, we walked around Centro Storico and went to the Duomo Napoli. At 17h, we explored Napoli Sotterranea, a 90-minute tour of Naples underground. Running beneath Naples and the surrounding area is an underground geothermal zone and several tunnels that were dug over the ages.
We learned about people sheltering there during WWII and how the Romans ingeniously obtained clean water through the underground aqueducts. Walking through these ancient passageways, we were transported back in time.
As a side note, there are two tours available, and their entrances are located across from each other. One tour goes 10m down and explores the underground city, while the other goes 40m down and explores the aqueduct. Anyway, I was so stoked that there were tickets available, I accidentally bought tickets for the underground city instead of the aqueduct tour, so I was out 30 euros. However, we bought tickets for the right tour, and it was absolutely worth it.
We were incredibly appreciative to be invited to have dinner at the Pastore’s, and we were happy to see Umberto, especially since he lives in the same building! Carmen picked us up and gave us a tour of her neighborhood, pointing out where she and her brothers went to school, the places she and Marco have an aperitivo, president’s villa, and more. The view from Posillipo is amazing! We were so grateful since Carmen hosted us after working a 12-hour day, she had a beautiful dinner prepared, and after each course, she had another ready. Italian hospitality is the best, but you need to know when to say "Basta!" What a nice time together it was!
Day Six - Thursday:
Our flight was leaving at 2:25 pm, so we spent the morning walking around Vomero. Luke has been obsessed with all things shopping – shoes, shoes, Stone Island, shoes, and I don’t even know what else. It is exhausting. So we decided to let him lead this morning to go to all the shops he flagged. We hope the constant chatter about clothes, etc., may be squelched. fingers crossed. Giuseppe recommended we try the pizza fritta of Esterina Sorbillo located on Piazza Trieste e Trento 53. So we did that before grabbing a taxi for the airport.
Before coming to Naples, I didn’t really know what to expect. This city is amazing. Yes, it is dirty. Yes, everyone is hustling. But there is something so special here. It just works. A two-lane road has 5 lanes of cars. Everyone is calm and just does what they do. Cross the street. Don’t hesitate. Just put your hand up, and the moto or car will slow just enough for you to get across. I didn’t feel unsafe, even when we were walking back through the narrow streets at night. Of course, keep your wits about you so you don’t get pickpocketed, etc. But overall, I think this city is so unique, so alive, and just wow! As Gabe stated, “you need your whole life to really know Napoli.”
Ciao for now Napoli.
